That blurry line beneath a pink sky: Finland, a sight that signalled the end of our journey. We stopped briefly on the Finnish side of the Haparanda inlet to ask the way from a guy called Jack. Jack strolled out into the water and started chatting in Finnish, then Swedish, asking us our names and if we wanted to stay. I swear I could hear banjos in the distance as we politely declined, backing away calmly through the reeds.