This was the most beautiful campsite on the entire trip: tucked away behind a huge rock, the tiny bay was flanked on one side by a rocky shore, the other by a picturesque wood. Surrounded by pines, a tiny patch of fine sand, soft and smooth made the perfect pitching site for the tent. Even the mist came down at just the right time adding to the magic. The beast was my growing agony from a bad attack of piles: after weeks of paddling in a wet cockpit, it felt like I was paddling on a red hot poker. Excruciating is a good description but all bad things come to an end... eventually!